Tuesday, October 2, 2012

Herdade Do Esporão Quatro Castas 2010 - Alentejo, Portugal

Four Varietals: Aragonez, Tinta Miúda, Tinta Caiada & Alfrocheiro.  These four potent Portuguese varietals-or castas combine to form one passionate, formidable & food-necessary wine.  The color is deep, penetrating red in the center, but rings out from there to a vibrant magenta where it thins at the edges of the glass. The nose is equally alive, bombarding the senses with thick dark fruits, hints of cedar and a touch of eucalyptus.  Despite this explosive nose there is a hint of brettyness lingering at the margins of the whiff.  It steps on the fruit and muffles the finish, but it doesn't spoil it by any means (with this my first experience of 'confirmed', or at least spotted, Brettanomyces, a certain undeniable scent of bandaid hangs perceptibly in nose, I can see why the debate rages on as to whether these are enhancements or faults).  The juice is surprisingly light in the mouth considering the nose, however its power and depth instantly remind of its masculine character and full-band personality finishing with a particulate dustiness leaving the palate gripped in tobacco, coffee grounds and deep, ripe red fruits.  This I'd like to think is the Aragonez (tempranillo) showing through with that inky, particulate intensity.  From what I've read the Tinta Caiada adds texture & color, the magenta? And a cab franc-like vegetative complexity.  The Alfrochiero, a workhorse of the Douro, adds the fruit, aromatics and saturation.  At 14.5% there isn't much time before the alcohol surfaces, but just before it does, roasted strawberries and tart blackberries appear momentarily. overall a solid, masculine wine with old world integrity and charm.  Enjoy with food, something rich, intense and preferably red.

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